John Muir Trail 2018 Part 1

"Oh you like hiking? Have you ever done the John Muir Trail?"
"The John Muir Trail is like the hardest trail in California!"
"My friend from college did the JMT in 20 days but it takes some people 30 days"
"I'm totally gonna do the JMT some day."
"Don't bother doing it, it's like a highway. And good luck getting a permit."
"You have to do it! You aren't a real backpacker until you've done it!"

Just a few things I have been told about the John Muir Trail

For me the JMT wasn't a bucket list item. It wasn't the hardest trail I've ever done. It wasn't even something I really wanted to do. But I did it and I'm glad I did.

Saturday August 11th, 2018
Cottonwood TH - Crabtree Meadows
19.2 miles

Day 1: I started in a familiar place since I was just here a few weeks earlier on a short overnighter to Mt. Langley I wasn't planning on any resupplies for the duration of my trip, so I had 10 days of food weighing down my maxed out Z-pack. It was hard climbing up to Cottonwood pass because of the extra weight, but I managed. I ate lunch at Rock Creek while it rained for ~45 minutes. I planned to make Crabtree by tonight and I sure did.

Crabtree Meadows and Whitney Divide 

Crabtree Meadows

Sunday August 12th, 2018
Crabtree Meadows - Bubbs Creek
20.4 miles

Day 2: Up early I continued north and hit the brunt of southbound (SOBO) JMTers. I decided before even starting the hike I would skip Whitney. I did it a couple years ago on the HST and I didn't have the time; I needed to finish my hike before school started again. The views west were great all the way across Bighorn Plateau and as I approached Forester Pass.

Looking back on the Kaweahs

The Great Western Divide from Bighorn Plateau

The Great Western Divide

Tyndall Creek Drainage

Forester Pass

Approaching Forester Pass

It was hard work carrying a heavy pack (<30lbs!) at this high elevation. On the south side of Forester Pass I was stuck in hail for half an hour before starting the highest pass on the JMT. Then came the decent through some really nice lakes as I descended the Bubbs drainage.

North views from Forester

North view from Forester

Bubbs Creek Drainage

Glacial moraines 

Bubbs Creek

Bubbs Creek

The downhill at the end of the day was not the nicest thing, and I began to notice a theme that would define my hike: steep uphills and the never-ending descent! I camped near Upper Vidette Meadow, once again in familiar territory.

Monday August 13th, 2018
Bubbs Creek - Lake Marjorie
21.3 miles

Day 3: I had done the Rae Lakes Loop 2 times prior to this so I knew what this morning would contain. The trek up to Glen was as expected and the views were magnificent as always. I dropped down to Rae and pushed through, barely stopping for a picture. It felt sacrilegious to rush through but I had to make the miles!

Rae Lakes from Glen Pass

Finn Dome

Woods Crossing

Woods Creek bridge marked the beginning into brand new territory. Up until now about 2/3 of my miles I'd done before; from now on it would all be new. I climbed up Woods Creek and made dinner at the Sawmill Pass Junction, but I didn't stop there. I continued to Pinchot Pass where I was treated to some spectacular evening lighting. I made it to Lake Marjorie before dark, but barely.

Mt Wynne

Mt Wynne

Looking South from Pinchot Pass

Looking South from Pinchot Pass

Looking south from Pinchot Pass

Pika!

Marjorie Lake

Tuesday August 14th, 2018
Lake Marjorie - LeConte Ranger Station
21.9 miles

Day 4: Last night was the coldest by far and I got little sleep. At the Bench Lake Ranger Station junction I picked up a letter for the LeConte ranger with the intention of delivering it that day. The terrain in Upper Basin was wide open before terminating at Mather Pass. Up. Up. Up. Lunch at the pass before descending beneath the Palisades and down the Golden Staircase.

Mather Pass

Upper Basin

The Palisades

Walking beneath the Palisades

Palisade Creek

The Golden Staircase

I had high expectations for LeConte Canyon but found it just like Bubbs Drainage. Kinda impressive at parts, but I was done with the miles of downhill through the forest. I made it to the LeConte RS but the ranger was out on patrol in Ionian Basin. I dropped off the letter and made camp nearby.

PART 2