John Muir Trail 2018 Part 2

This is part 2 of my 2018 JMT hike. Click here for Part 1

Wednesday August 15th, 2018

Leconte Ranger Station - Park Boundary
24.9 miles

Day 5: The highest mileage day. I'm using mileage calculated in Caltopo for my titles, but my paper map put me at 26.8 miles, so I like to believe that one! I climbed up to Muir Pass through some beautiful lakes. The pass had a dozen people on top, something I had come to expect on this trip. I had already done 8 miles before 11am, more than some people at the top were planning on even doing that day. It really puts it into perspective.

Helen Lake

Black Divide

Muir Pass

Muir Hut

Evolution Basin

I also started to notice all the mules in the area, I must have passed 30+ head that day alone. After climbing up to Muir Pass I got to drop down through Evolution Basin and Evolution Valley.

Mules heading up Muir Pass

Evolution Basin

I was now in the San Joaquin River Drainage. I stopped at the Evolution Ranger Station and had a talk with the rangers there before heading downhill again. I planned on camping on the South Fork SJ River but when I got there I felt like pushing on. I looked at the map and saw that I could hit the park boundary and would have hiked over a marathon which spurred me on. When I saw the boundary sign it was an emotional moment. I had just hiked all the way across Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks! My adrenaline was rushing but it was getting dark and I had to make camp. Probably my favorite day of the hike.

Thursday August 16th, 2018
Park Boundary - Quail Meadows
22.3 miles

Day 6: I started today at 8000ft and had to climb 3000ft to Selden Pass. I started especially early to beat the heat. As I climbed I could see Florence Lake and civilization a few miles away, but I had miles to make! Selden Pass was pretty and I liked the starkness of the granite sparsely populated with conifers.

Selden Pass

Marie Lake

I gradually descended Bear Creek before starting the afternoon climb back up over Bear Ridge. Bear Ridge was the most emotionally exhausting and frustrating part of the hike. My feet were so tired from the previous days' miles and I was mentally done with the ups and downs. I pushed forward to truly conquer the mountain and prove that I was tougher. On top of the ridge the geology was interesting. Lots of volcanics were evident and made for a fun walk. I almost forgot how bad the 1000ft climb up was. Almost. As I started to descend I once again remembered that I was in fact crossing a ridge and I had 2100ft to descend before camp. 1/3 of the way down I was starting to grumble. Halfway I was really getting ticked off. 2/3 I was irate! I hated this mountain! I hated this trail! I hated that I climbed 1000ft just to go down 2100ft! I was tired. I was mad. And I was done! Luckily I passed through an aspen grove (my favorite tree) that calmed me down before I entered camp at dusk.

Aspen grove

If yesterday was the best day of hiking then today was definitely the worst.

Friday August 17th, 2018
Quail Meadows - Duck Creek
17.14 miles

Day 7: Today I decided to take it easier (only 17 miles ha!) and give my feet some time to recuperate. Silver Pass came up early in the morning.

Things were getting easier each day as I dropped my food weight and grew stronger. I dropped down into Tully Hole and started to notice the different hues in the mountains characteristic of metamorphic and volcanic rocks, not plutonic granitoids. This excited me and I kicked myself for not bringing some geologic maps. I made it a point to slow my normally quick pace as I passed Virginia and Purple Lakes to give my feet a break.

I stopped at Purple, did some laundry and took a dip. I dried off in the sun and relaxed. It felt very uncomfortable for me not to be hiking. I just couldn't let that be so I hike a few more miles and camped below Duck Lake.

Saturday August 18th, 2018
Duck Creek - Red's Meadow
11.3 miles

Day 8: Today started out easy. No passes to climb until after Red's Meadow, gradually downhill through easy terrain. I got to Red Cones before 11 and looked over Red's Meadow and saw something I hadn't seen thus far: smoke. As hikers passed I asked how the smoke was further north and they all said the same thing: it only gets worse.

Smoky Mammoth

I had to decide what to do at that point; I didn't really want to walk through Yosemite if the only views I got were grey horizons, which was likely. At Red's Meadow I made the decision to cut my trip short on account of smoke. Not ideal, but better than the alternative. I called my parents and let them know I was safe and my plans going forward.

At this point I also learned that the shuttle back to Lone Pine doesn't run on the weekends. Go figure. I hopped on the Mammoth Lakes Shuttle with a newlywed couple SOBO who were taking a day off to spend the night in Mammoth in a motel. It was real culture shock getting back to reality after 8 days in the backcountry. I made a sign and stood by the Shell trying to get a ride out of town, at least to the 395 where I could better hitch back to Lone Pine. After 40 minutes a local going to Bishop gave me a ride. When we got to Bishop he asked me where my car was and I told him it was at Cottonwood. He had nothing else to do and took me all the way. What luck! I filled up his tank in Lone Pine and thanked him profusely once I got to my car. If returning to civilization in Mammoth was a shock, here I was in an air conditioned car driving 70 mph down the 395. 24 hours earlier I was sleeping on the ground in the backcountry, makes you think. I showered at the Love's in Tehachapi and had dinner at the Denny's there (you can't beat $4 all you can eat pancakes). A few more hours and I was back home with a few days left to recuperate before the fall semester started.